Bruges, Belgium and Slius, Holland

After Paris Nicole, Andy, Mysha and I decided to travel to Bruges. The trip was decided a little bit on a whim but mainly because my father and Mysha's grandfather had served their missions in Holland and this part of the world. We had no real plans once we got to Bruges so only full day that we had there we woke up and decided to bike the 19 km to Holland for lunch and then bike back.

It was so amazing! After biking through Spain, Belgium, and Holland I think biking is the way to see Europe. I probably would not recommend it in a major metropolitan such as Paris or London but through the countryside and even in Barcelona biking was the way to travel. We biked along canals the entire trip seeing beautiful countryside full of windmills. We ate lunch in Holland and walked around Slius and was a little surprised by the promiscuous shops. We left to return to Bruges but on the way back had to fight wind and drizzling rain so we came up with games to occupy our time (we also had to fight the build up of lactic acid in our legs). We stopped only to take a brief break to frolick in Flander's fields - great quality fun.

When we got back into Bruges we rode around the town stopping in the little shops and visiting the Christmas markets. I think that this part of Europe does the Christmas season the best I have ever seen. I loved learning from our favorite chocolatier the stories and traditions of Santa Claus who comes on the night of December 5th and leaves toys in the good children's clogs. I just love the traditions and cultures of this area! The trip only left me with two regrets - I wish we had spent more time and I wish that I could have experienced this trip with my Dad. The people were also all very friendly and accomodating for our lack of speaking Dutch.

Paris

I will attempt to break from tradition and not include any pictures of La Tour Eiffel - I do not know why, I just feel like being different. Maybe it is because while La Tour Eiffel is beautiful I find other sites in Paris more inspiring.

Paris highlights: having the first question asked of me in French was "ou est le Moulin Rouge?", being the authority of the French language and culture, meeting up with a high school friend and grabbing dinner baguettes from a little boulangerie and eating along the Seine watching the night boat tours and catching up, walking from the Louvre to La Tour Eiffel by myself at night, eating copious amounts of crepes, figuring out that I can navigate by myself in Paris, getting scolded in French by an angry French waitress at the family classic "steak and frites", and just enjoying life. After the Paris visit I was a little sad that I had not chosen to do the Paris Study Abroad (I still love London) as it was invigorating to use my French. But then I remembered that I would be living in the French house next semester so I will get my French fix.

I think the most inspiring image to me was the view of the bridge in the Latin Quarter. I could have sat there for hours. There is something I love about rivers - the Thames and the Seine will always enthrall me no matter how many times I have seen it. I loved going up all the stairs at le Sacre Coeur and la Notre Dame seeing the different views of Paris. Oh man my suppressed francophile definitely came out during this Paris trip. I have not been back to France since my Junior year of high school when I did a French exchange program and I did not even realize how much I had missed it.

Unfortunately I had to rush through the Louvre to meet my friend and all the while I was trying to justify it by saying that I had already been in my life and I will go again but in all honesty I could not suppress the feeling that I was betraying art and that I would probably not have another opportunity where I would be currently studying the art. Oh well! At least I was able to appreciate le Musee D'Orsay, in my mind that is the far superior museum of the two so it was okay.

Edinburgh

Haggis! (Not the form I ate it in)

Not the best timing to make a Scotland trip but definitely worth the subsequent sleepless nights. We took the Night bus on Thursday night after an American Thanksgiving. The night bus is nothing like Harry Potter but for the crazy driving. We unfortunately came late and were given the seats next to the loo and you know the smell is bad that we rejoiced when a man who had just smoked came and sat near us and covered the smell somewhat. After a night of overheating and bad smells we arrived in Edinburgh. Luckily our awesome youth hostel (located right at the base of Edinburgh Castle and on top of the royal mile) let us crash for an hour or so.

So general thoughts on Edinburgh: a lot of men really do wear kilts and in all different circumstances and men in all different stages of their life. I was a little surprised. In fact every stereotype that I had of Edinburgh and what I expected happened. We happened to be there during the St. Andrew festival and saw cars that demonstrated the golf history of Scotland. We saw bagpipers galore and in the carnivalesque style we saw three men dressed up as old ladies sitting ontop of segways dancing. Pretty crazy but so fun. I even tried the infamous haggis and while it was not as bad as I expected I do not think I will ever be trying that again.

I felt most connected to the Scottish culture when I was hiking Arthur's Seat and had the opportunity to reflect on Orson Hyde's presence as well as the stories and legends of King Arthur. As we hiked up we hiked further and further into the fog and clouds but in random patches of the hill there would be a break and all clear around us but in the distance on every side it was foggy. The view was beautiful but I think the best part was the hike up and hanging out at the top. We took Friederich pictures - our tribute to the great painting "Wanderer Above the Sea Fog".

Overall great trip. We also ate at many cafes sampling some delicious hot chocolate and my favorite meal was at the cafe that JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter. I loved that while outside they paid tribute to the novels but inside life moved on. It seemed as if the decorations were exactly the same as they had been for several years and the spirit of the place had not changed. I love that they were not trying to exploit and gain profit from the Harry Potter franchise. So go Elephant House! Loved Scotland, definitely could have spent more time there.

November 11

Today was Armistice Day to commemorate and remember those who have given their lives in past wars. At 11 o'clock the whole country had a two minute moment of silence. We were at Hampton Court and everything was shut down and everyone gathered in the courtyard and together we remembered those who gave their lives for liberty and the freedom of many nations. I realized as I stood there and reflected, two minutes is really not that long of time but in America we only do a one minute moment of silence. I do not think that this fully does justice for the occasions.

What is it with America and our failure to remember history? Last September 11th I remember that the Jerusalem Center students had to be reminded by our Israeli Hebrew professor to take a minute and think of those who lost their lives. In High school I always thought Veteran's Day was important but it was not until the spirit of Great Britain was shown to me, being displayed through poppies, that I felt guilty for my lack of enthusiasm and remembrance. For those who are not aware, poppies are Great Britain's national symbol for the fallen veterans and for any amount of a donation you can get a poppy pin. For the whole first part of the month of November and even in October you could see poppies all around London and Great Britain. This gesture is quite touching when you see the great unifying affect it has on the people of England. I just wanted to express my appreciation for those who have died for our freedoms and to say that I am proud to be wearing a poppy today.

Similarities Betwixt England and New England

• Remembrance of a certain Tea Party
• The colorful doors on houses
• Our unique way of saying names
• Peabody, Leicester, Worcester, et cetera
• Beautiful overgrown cemeteries with gravestones dating to the 1700s
• A great history of emigration and immigration
• Liverpool as a religious port of significance, the Mayflower as a vessel for my ancestors
• A period of darker history in connection with witch trials
• Lancaster, England and Salem, Massachusetts
• The industry and exploitation of mill workers and their importance in economy
• Leaves changing colors so brilliantly in Autumn and the general feeling of Fall
• And so on…

The Churches of Spain

Sagrada Familia

This is the craziest church I have seen. Started in 1882 it has been in progress for 127 years and is not even projected to be completed until 2026. Every angle of the Church seems to be in a different style. There is the more modern currently being built style that seems completely out of place with even different color building materials, the classic Cathedral gothic style, a more grotto look, and more. It was interesting to walk around and see the salamanders and frogs in the place of gargoyles on one side.

Example of the crazy facade

Constant Construction

Esglesia Sant Pere de les Puel.les

This small church had a much warmer feel than grand Cathedrals which I really appreciated. The smell of incense while present was a duller candle smell which was also a nice change. One thing that I thought was interesting was that there were timelines along the walls which hit the highlights of world events - political, social, et cetera - by Pope. It is a Catholic Church but very sedate and minimalistic. There was a large metal statue of Peter in the center of the church with smaller frescos of Christ on either side which I thought was interesting.

The Church of the San Francis of Sales

This was a gothic style Catholic church that we wandered into. Although the gothic style architecture was similar to the gothic style of England, the church was quite different. Because there was no great political movement to destroy original decoration the original ornamentation was there and very grand. There was a lot of ornate tiling on the floor and the whole church was decorated with geometric patterns (the Muslim moor influence?). There was a fresco'd angel which was portrayed very fairy-like and palm trees were present behind Jesus. The music in the church was very Spanish and the whole church felt very Mediterranean.

The War Cabinet Rooms and the Churchill Museum

So I had been excited about this museum even since before I came to London because Jen Thomas had recommended it as one of her favourite things. The War Cabinet Rooms was the area underneath the City of London that during WWII controlled basically the Prime Minister’s cabinet as well as most of the government and war effort headquarters. I loved hearing the stories of Churchill butting heads with his cabinet but still respecting their opinions and not running a dictatorship.

My favourite area was the loo that always said “occupied” and people just believed that it was a special loo for the Prime Minister but rather it was a secret telephone room. Then we went to the Churchill Museum and I learned all sorts of interesting things about Winston Churchill that I had never known. It was a very multimedia exhibit and I enjoyed learning more about the man behind all those powerful and great words. Definitely gave me a desire to read a biography on him.

Stratford-upon-Avon

The Fool from As You Like It

Being in Stratford-upon-Avon I was given an opportunity to understand Shakespeare’s context better and thus understand his plays better.

Our first stop was Mary Arden’s farm and it was the first time that I made the connection between As You Like It’s Forest of Arden and his mother’s maiden name. He must have loved her very much to name such a significant setting based upon her. The farm was very spacious and a good deal nicer than some of the farmers I have been to in my life. Mary Arden was definitely from that middle class gentry. Attached to her farm was the PALMER FARM. My relatives owned it? I loved walking around because I could sense the approaching Autumn season and I love it!


Next we went to Anne Hathaway’s house which is an original thatched-roof, half-timbered house so that was neat to see but honestly I was a little disappointed with the actual house as it was just ridden with lore concerning Shakespeare and not actual fact. The grounds were pretty extensive.

Finally before heading off to the Courtyard Theatre to catch a viewing of The Winter’s Tale we went to Shakespeare’s birthplace. My comment on that was wow, that is a lot of kids in not a lot of space!

Westminster Abbey

We were given the money and the assignment to go to Westminster on our own and so this Friday Melissa and I left to go (blissfully at our own pace) through the famed Cathedral. Sneakily before I realized that I could not take photos I snapped a few of the Cathedral so haha beat that guards!

Anyway, the voice of our narration was the actor who played Scar in Disney’s The Lion King so it was a little distracting at first and hard to get over the sinister nature of his character but do not worry, I was able to work through it. I was most excited to see Poet’s Corner so I am ashamed to say that I went through the rest of the church not on cruise mode but faster than maybe appropriate for such a hallowed hall. I definitely want to go back to Evensong some Sunday and enjoy the acoustics and spirit there.

I was surprised with all the political figures and Kings and Queens that had been buried there but then again it is part of the political tradition of the Kingdom so I understand. Poet’s Corner was amazing and I loved seeing all my favourite poets and writers but my favourite in the entire Cathedral was the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from 1920 and reading the inscription. Secondly, I thought it was interesting that the tomb of Elizabeth I was on top of Bloody Mary’s (next to innocent’s corner) with the inscription inferring that they followed Christ in their own way according to their consciences.

Seats of Power Walk

Melissa, Andy, and I went on this walk along the Thames and the district that houses England’s political power – Houses of Parliament, Cabinet War Rooms, et cetera. We walked along the Thames looking at every single statue in the Victoria Embankment Garden and I was impressed with the range of national heroes that they displayed.

The statues displayed the variety of English pride with war heroes, religious figures, social activists, and even a shout out to Psychology with John Stuart Mills! We continued on through the area and found many statues commemorating the women of WWII, cavalry, parachuters, and many other groups of people. I think it is a little scary to have all that power concentrated in one area – I am surprised that it was all not destroyed during the Blitz.

Truth Will Prevail

On Thursday we visited Preston where the first LDS missionaries came to Preston immediately upon arriving in England and as they arrived they found it was Election Day. One of the political mottos was “Truth will Prevail” which then became the motto of the First Mission and I think an appropriate motto for my own life.

There were several lessons I took away from the day and one of them was a personal anecdote shared by our tour guide Peter Fag. He told us that he had an opportunity to see Gordon B. Hinckley in the Market Square where not only did the early missionaries begin their preaching but Gordon B. Hinckley also “cut his teeth on public speaking”. Peter told us that Gordon B. Hinckley admitted to him that he was terrified of that initial speech.

Plaque in a Park Commemorating Latter-day Saints

We initiated the tour by going to a museum and learning about the history of Preston (a largely industrial city). “Britain’s bread hangs upon Lancaster’s thread”. I also found it fascinating that the city of Preston’s symbol is the lamb of God with the sword of truth and a banner. The “PP” on the city crest stands for the prince of peace. How fitting.

I loved learning about the saints of Preston and how there was a member (who later became Joseph Smith’s Hebrew tutor) who had a dream of a golden book and angel and was consequently converted when the missionaries came to preach. Strong parallels to Newel K. Whitney’s dream of Joseph Smith in Kirtland.

Preston Temple

Other notes that interested me was that Karl Marx predicted that Preston would be England’s St. Petersburg and would overthrow the English government and led the UK to communism. Also that Preston was the city that Dicken’s based “Hard Times” upon. We walked by Edith Rigby the suffragette’s house and learned a bit of her colorful history – right on!

This post is drawing on but some other interesting Preston thoughts: there were about 7-9,000 spectators to the first baptism and they nicknamed Mormons “the dippers” due to full immersion.

Site of the First Baptism

Liverpool

We began with the statue given by the church to commemorate the nine million who emigrated to America from the Liverpool docks. I liked the crab who represents the deep connection to the sea and the fact that the child was touching the Dad representing the new emigrations hanging on to their traditions of the old world. Off topic but there was a statue Billy Fury who everyone mistook for Elvis.

Billy Fury

Emigrating Family

We spoke of the emigration and same students shared individual stories of relatives that converted in the British Isles and then emigrated. It reminds me of my ancestors that I am named for who came over on the Mayflower. We finished by singing “Come, Come Ye Saints” and enjoying the strong spirit.



Next I went to the Maritime Museum and I was inspired by the Joseph Conrad quote, “As long as men will travel on water, the sea gods will take their toll”. I walked through the Titanic exhibit, a naval exhibit (in which I was incensed that there was this hardcore propaganda poser that showed a little boy of about four years old standing attention to the sea captain of a large ship in uniform who is likewise in attention and the slogan was “Run Away to Sea”), and a slavery exhibit. It was quite moving when in the Titanic exhibit they played “Nearer My God to Thee”.


In the slavery exhibit I found it quite ironic that they quoted Woodrow Wilson saying that liberty requires resistance. It is ironic considering that they took this quote out of context and Woodrow Wilson was pro-Ku Klux Klan and quite racist. Other than that one offensive quote I loved Nelson Mandela’s quote: “For to be free is not merely to cast off one’s chains, but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others” and Frederick Douglass’ quote: “No man can put a chain about the ankle of his fellow man without at last finding the other end fastened about his own neck”. Man the power of a great orator. I was so proud when they cited Boston for having a statue of Harriet Tubman. I ended the exhibit by listening to Bob Marley’s “Redemption Song” – yeah buddy!

Ribble Valley

After Preston we visited Ribchester and Downham two quaint villages in the Ribble Valley the latter under Pendle Hill of significance I will explain later.

Heber C. Kimball had a dream about an old barren field and cows trampling upon the new seed in the grass land. The interpretation of this dream was that the Minister of the village of Ribchester was leading the young saints astray and consequently Heber C. Kimball went back to Ribchester and repaired the damage.

The village of Downham was said to be a godless place and yet the early missionaries felt prompted to go there and had great success. An interesting fact is that the town decided that they would have no visible modern technology thus all their telephone wiring and other displays of modern technology are all underground. Another special feature of the town is that they won “loo of the year” for their unique design of converting old sheep stalls into male toilets.

The village is in the shadow of Pendle Hill which has religious significance to the Quakers, Methodists, and Latter-day Saints. The founder of the Quaker religion had a vision on top of Pendle Hill that directed him to like-minded people and they founded the Society of Friends. Similarly the Methodists and the Latter-day Saints has religious communes with Heavenly Father atop of Pendle Hill.

Fountains Abbey

As the wealthiest Abbey in all of England it was only too inevitable that Fountains Abbey should be seized and later fallen to disrepair. On Tuesday we visited the tragically poetic overgrown Fountains Abbey that could not even help but inspire.

The Abbey was started in response to an unfavorable Bishop of York and consequently after sometime the people of York came and burned the exile's Abbey down. We have now seen Canterbury and York Cathedrals and yet there is something about seeing the ruined state without any art to distract you which allows you to have a better sense of the sheer massive nature of an abbey or cathedral.

While others took out their sketch books and captured the beauty in that medium I tried to improve my photography skills as I roamed the green grassy knolls (a theme of our Lake District trip). There was this bridge (shown below) built with Roman vaulted architecture completely overgrown around it passing over a stream with various types of plants growing. Unfortunately these are not the best representations of my photography skills so do not please do not judge.

Greatness at the Globe

I am writing this post while still under the influence of euphoria due to the greatness I like to call As You Like It. After reading As You Like It (from this point on affectionately referred to as "AYLI") I quickly decided that it was my favorite Shakespeare play that I have ever read - and I have read about seven. Kenneth Branaugh's Much Ado About Nothing is still my favorite film adaptation but AYLI was my favorite play.

So back to my indescrible feelings. After seeing the play at the Globe I have now decided that AYLI is definitely my favorite Shakespeare play seen on the stage. The first half of the play I was sitting in basically the nosebleed section. There was a pole in the way and I had to constantly shift my seat to attempt to see the characters.

Then...in the second half I became a groundling and stood down on the stage and whew that is the only way to see a play in the Globe Theatre is to embrace the groundling status. The second half of the play was simply AMAZING! As I could actually see the character's faces I felt so drawn into the action and every comedic element was magnified by the use of physicality. I cannot even attempt to convey the feelings that AYLI invoked in me.

The fool character, Touchstone was hilarious and the melancholy Jacques simply delightful. The music in the end was a modern jazzy feel and the characters all danced their way through curtain call. I am going to go see it again for sure, especially because I can get groundling tickets for 5 pounds. After the play we danced over the Millenium Bridge with the light up St. Paul's in the background. Not a bad life, eh? Below is my pesky pole that obstructed my view.

The truest testament to our Study Abroad being entirely composed of females is the discussion in our dormitories after the play where every single female mooned over Orlando. As I was leaving the theatre I totally saw Daniel Radcliffe!

Well at least I thought I did until I looked closer and it was a 50 year old man.